Six Trails that will Give You Some Terrific Winter Hiking
Hiking recommendations are provided courtesy of Earth Share organization Washington Trails Association, working to preserve, enhance, and promote hiking opportunities in Washington state through collaboration, education, advocacy and trail maintenance.
With the high country likely to be socked in with snow for the next several months, many Washington hikers are finding themselves with an unmistakable case of the winter blahs. Get out your hiking boots (and an extra warm pair of wool socks) and get ready to chase them away with one of these great winter hikes. Clear alpine lakes and panoramic views might still be months away, but you can keep on hiking right through the winter on these six trails.
But first, the topic of winter hiking merits a mention of special safety preparations and precautions. Throughout our snowy season, which ranges from October to June, you should check trail conditions for your destination before heading out by calling Forest Service stations or consulting Washington Trails Association's trip reports. Trails below 2000 feet are free of snow much of the year, but remember that snow sometimes extends all the way down to sea level. Trails above 3000 feet are likely to have some snow. If you are hiking and reach an area where fallen snow has concealed the trail, you should head back. If snow begins to fall while you’re hiking, you should head back.
We know you’d never skimp on emergency readiness when hiking, but this is especially crucial when hiking in the winter. Pack your regular ten essentials, and bring along some winter-specific essentials as well, such as a pair of gaiters, rain coat and rain pants, extra warm hat and gloves, emergency shelter, and pair of ski poles. Many hikers bring along a pair of snowshoes as well.
Here are six trails that will give you some terrific winter hiking.
Six Great Winter Hikes
Boulder River Trail, near Darrington in Snohomish County
9 miles round trip, elevation gain 600 feet.
Towering old-growth trees in an unspoiled river valley with exquisite waterfalls – this is the subtle beauty of Boulder River. It’s truly one of the best winter hikes if you’re looking for an easy but rewarding day. The trail follows the path of an old railroad grade until the old trees begin, and at one mile you’ll cross into the Boulder River Wilderness. A bit further up the trail there are two glorious waterfalls pouring into the Boulder River on its far bank. Benches have been constructed in a viewing area here making it a great place to rest and enjoy the falls. You'll also find small, steep side trails leading down to the river's edge. At 1.5 miles cross and admire the very fine piece of puncheon built in 1997 by a WTA crew. The trail continues for 4.5 miles before disappearing at a ford of the Boulder River, where you’ll turn around and go back.
Directions: From I-5 drive Highway 530 east to mile point 41. Turn right on the French Creek Road FS #2010. Follow this to the road's end at 3.8 miles and an ample parking area.
Coal Creek Falls/ Cave Hole Trail/ Wildside loop, Cougar Mountain Regional Wildland Park
4 miles round trip, 400 feet elevation gain
Cougar Mountain is the largest urban wildland park in the U.S., and it’s right in the backyard of Seattle and its environs. If you like hiking to old coal mines, you’ll enjoy this hike that takes you to the historic Red Town mining area. From the parking lot, follow the Red Town Trail (W-2) uphill to an unsigned junction with C-3, the Cave Hole Trail. Hike less than a half mile, then go right onto the Coal Creek Falls Trail, C-4. It winds up and down, past fern-filled ravines and bowls. Alders, maples, and different varieties of pines tower above you as you come into the Coal Creek Valley. The trail winds downwards to a narrow bridge over Coal Creek. You can see the falls to the left of the bridge, but the best view can be had if you go up along the creek for a few yards. From the bridge, the way switchbacks up 3 times over a small ridge. At the top of the switchbacks, come to a junction with the Quarry Trail, C-6, and start to switchback down. Look for a "cave hole" on your right. It was formed when one of the old coal mines collapsed, and formed a hole in the hill-side. Some pieces of coal and bits of wood and nails can be found alongside the trail. Past a meadow, go left onto the wide, smooth Wildside Trail, W-1. There's a neat side-trip to an exhibit showing a blocked up mine, rusty pipes and tools used in it, as well as an old mine-cart full of coal. A bit past here, on puncheon across a very wet marsh, are the remains of the steam-hoist that was used to pull the mine-carts out of their shafts. Back at the exhibit, the way goes a few yards back to the trailhead. The Issaquah Alps Trail Club (425-369-1725) publishes a neat guide to the trails of Cougar Mountain.
Directions: From Seattle, take I-90 east. At exit 13, go right onto Lakemont Boulevard SE. Just before a long bend in the road, go left into the parking area.If you're coming from Bellevue, drive I-405 south. At exit 10, go left onto Coal Creek Parkway SE. Stay on it past Newport Way SE, and at Lake Boren, veer sharply left on SE Newcastle-Coal Creek Road. Just before a long bend in the road go right into the parking area.
Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge, off I-5 north of Olympia
Up to 7 miles round trip, no elevation gain
Nisqually is an excellent destination from autumn through spring for wildlife viewing and photography, although partial seasonal closures occur every winter. Although Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge is not open to hunting, waterfowl hunting does occur on Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife land immediately adjacent to the trail. Each year a three-mile long portion of the Brown Farm Dike Trail is closed during hunting season (October-January), which is unfortunate for hikers seeking a nice, long loop hike. Save this one for February, or stick to the trails that remain open, many which have newer boardwalks through the wet areas that will keep your feet dry. In winter, bring binoculars to enjoy the many species of dabbling and diving ducks that stop to feed in the wetlands or the several species of raptors, such as owls, harriers and kestrels, that survey the fields for prey. Go this winter, and you’ve got a chance of spotting a rare visitor to the refuge, the enormous Snowy Owl, a species that every decade or so will overwinter in large numbers in some parts of the U.S. Up to four of these white birds have been spotted at Nisqually in recent weeks.
Directions: Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) is on the southern end of Puget Sound between Olympia and Fort Lewis. Take Exit 114 from I-5 and follow the signs to the refuge. The refuge is open daily during daylight hours. The daily entrance fee is $3, waived if you have one of the many passes they honor.
Enchanted Valley, Olympic National Park
Up to 26 miles round trip, up to 1300 feet elevation gain
Perhaps you’ve heard about the magical splendor of Enchanted Valley. Start the hike along the river under an open canopy of alder and maple, then ascend leisurely through a forest of fir that have reached massive size. If you make it all the way to the end of this long valley, you’ll come to a large alpine cirque surrounded by 3000-foot cliffs. If you’re lucky, you’ll see elk and maybe even black bear, which are rather thick in here. This valley was once a lake that formed when a glacier retreated after the last ice age. This isn’t a loop hike, so make it as long as you want by turning around at your own desired midpoint.
Directions: Drive U.S. 101 around the western side of the Olympic Peninsula to the Lake Quinault South Shore Road. The road turns easterly and skirts the lake. Pavement ends at 12 miles. Drive another 6 miles to the Graves Creek trailhead at 907 feet. Early and late in the year, check the road's conditions because flooding can wash out portions of it.
Cape Alava Sand Point Loop, Olympic Coast
9.3 miles round trip, no elevation gain
Winter is a great time to hit the beach, especially a trail this popular, where you’ll have some seasonal solitude. It’s also a superb hike for exploring petroglyphs and artifacts. Two trails, one leading to Cape Alava and another leading to Sand Point, begin at the trailhead. The loop makes an excellent day trip and an even better overnight at one of the many campsites at Cape Alava, Sand Point, or farther north along the beach at the mouth of the Ozette River. It begins on the Cape Alava trail and follows a series of boardwalks through the shaded coastal forest for two miles before opening to a grassy bog called Ahlstrom's Prairie. This area was settled by Scandinavian homesteaders in the late 19th century. The meadow will blend into a short forested section, then into another smaller meadow. Travel into another forested section of hemlocks and cedars. A spruce forest picks up where the hemlocks and cedars left off. The trail will pass through forests of hemlocks, cedars and spruce and past campsites as it reaches the beach. Just slightly north, a Makah Indian Village site in the Ozette Indian Reservation offers a look at numerous artifacts. Tskawahyah Island, an ancient burial site, lies just off the north point of Cape Alava. After you have spent time exploring here, take the beach route of the loop south to Sand Point. Only one section may impede your travel at high tide, but there is an overland trail around this. Once at the point, take the boardwalk trail back to the trailhead, through large Sitka spruce and into western redcedars and hemlocks.
Directions: Take US Highway 101 twelve miles north of forks and turn north at the "Ozette Lake and Neah Bay" sign. Continue ten miles down this forested road and turn left onto State Route 112. Follow the route eleven miles to a "Ozette Lake" sign and turn left on Ozette Road. Follow this 22 miles to the trailhead at the north end of Ozette Lake. A ranger station is located at the trailhead.
Beacon Rock Trail, Beacon Rock State Park
Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area
2 miles round trip, 600 feet elevation gain
Located in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area east of Portland is Beacon Rock, an enormous Basalt monolith that is actually the core of an ancient volcano. Named by the Lewis and Clark expedition, hikers today can do something that Lewis and Clark could not: walk on a trail that takes you up 600 feet to the top of this great monolith. The mile-long trail to its summit provides outstanding panoramic views of the Columbia River Gorge. The trail begins with an easy climb through mixed forest, then ascends paths that were blasted out through solid rock and along wooden catwalks. Handrails line the route for the safety and comfort of hikers. The trail gradually climbs its way up a onto the sheer basalt cliffs of the rock itself, where the views are sensational. Give a call ahead to Beacon Rock State Park, (509) 427-8265 to check conditions before you head out. For more year-round hikes in the Gorge, check out “Day Hike! Columbia Gorge: The Best Trails You Can Hike In A Day� by Seabury Blair Jr.
Directions: From Vancouver, take I-205 south to the Hwy. 14 exit and follow Hwy. 14 east. Beacon Rock and the park entrance are located at mile post 35. From Portland,take I-84 eastbound along the Columbia River to Cascade Locks, and cross the Columbia River into Washington on the toll bridge. Turn left onto Hwy. 14 west for seven miles to Beacon Rock.
Want more great winter hike suggestions? Check out “Winter Hikes in the Puget Sound & the Olympic Foothills� by Bob Mooers, Sasquatch Books.
If it is snowy trails you seek, check out our recommended six snowshoe routes from the December 2004 issue of Trail News.
You can help other hikers get out more! Post your winter hiking and snowshoe trips on WTA’s website.
